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JUNIHITOE
Isnin, 9 September 2013 • 5:41 PG • 0 comments 
a family wearing junihitoe
A young woman
modeling a jūnihitoe
Empress Kōjun wearing a jūnihitoe for her
coronation 1926
The jūnihitoe
(十二単衣) is an extremely elegant and highly
complex kimono that was only worn by court-ladies in Japan. Literally
translated, it means "twelve-layer robe". The older term, still used
by scholars but not widely recognised in mainstream Japan, is Karaginu Mo
(唐衣裳). This is in reference to its Chinese coat
(Karaginu) and apron-like train (Mo), the defining parts of the costume.
The jūnihitoe
started to appear around the 10th century during the Heian Era. The various layers are silkgarments. The innermost garment is made of white silk,
followed by other layers which have various names, which are finally closed off
by a final layer or coat. The total weight could add up to 20 kilograms.
The colours and
the arrangements of the layers are very important. The colours have poetic
names, such as "crimson plum of the spring". The only place where the
layers are discernible is around the sleeves and the
neck. The arrangements of the layers and their colours were a good indication
to any outsider what taste and what rank the lady had. Apart from their robes,
Japanese court ladies also wore their hair very long, only cut at the sides of
their faces in a layered fashion; the longer hair was sometimes worn tied back.
An important accessory was an elaborate fan,
which could be tied together by a rope when folded. This was used by the lady
not only to cool herself, since it could get very hot, but it was also an
important communication device. Since a lady was not allowed to speak
face-to-face to a male outsider, she could hold her sleeve up or use her opened
fan to shield herself from inquiring looks. Communication to a suitor had to
follow with her normally hiding behind the sudare (screen
or blinds) in any case. The suitor could only see the sleeves of her jūnihitoe
that were peeking underneath the blinds. This practice was prominent during the
Heian-Era, being frequently and accurately described in the Tale of Genji (jp: Genjimonogatari).
The movement in
such a robe could be difficult due to its weight. Ladies actually slept in
their jūnihitoe sometimes, using it as a form of pajamas. Layers
could be shed or kept, depending on the season and the night temperatures.
During the Muromachi-Era, however, the dress was sometimes reduced to
five robes (known as a "five-layer robe").
Contemporary
use
Today the jūnihitoe
can only be seen in museums, in movies, or at certain festivals. Production of jūnihitoe
has almost died out. These robes are priceless and are one of the most
expensive items of Japanese clothing. Only the Imperial
Household still uses them
at some important functions. During the wedding of Masako, Crown
Princess of Japan to the
crown prince, she wore a jūnihitoe for the official ceremony. The jūnihitoe
was also worn by Empress Michiko during the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Akihito in 1990. Her ladies-in-waiting were all
wearing the jūnihitoe, however in modified form from the Edo period, not the Heian style.
The SaiōMatsuriSaiō Festival is held
every in Meiwa, Mie and showcases Heian era dresses. They are
also featured at the AoiMatsuri in Kyoto.
The Layers of
the jūnihitoe
The layers of the
Jūnihitoe consist of:
☆ The undergarments: Usually a two-piece
cotton or silk garment.
☆ Kosode: A short
silk red or white robe of ankle or lower calf length.
☆ Nagabakama: A very long red pleated split skirt
which can also be worn by men.
☆ Hitoe: An unlined silk robe; usually red, white
or blue-green, although other colors (such as dark red-violet or dark green)
very rarely occur.
☆ Uchigi: A series of brightly coloured unlined
robes which create a layered effect.
☆ Uchiginu: A beaten scarlet silk robe worn as a
stiffener and support for the outer robes.
☆ Uwagi: A
patterned woven and decorated silk robe than is shorter and narrower than the Uchiginu.
☆ Kouchigi: (lit., "small cloak") a
shorter brocade robe worn over the uchigi or uwagi to add some formality on
occasions when the karaginu and mo were NOT worn
☆ Karaginu: A waist length Chinese style jacket.
☆ "Mo": An apron-like train, down the back
of the robe. White with painted/embroidered adornment.
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